Thunderhead Japanese Black Pine

'Thunderhead' Japanese Black Pine at U.T. Gardens in Knoxville

Thunderhead (Pinus thunbergiana) is a choice shrub variety of Japanese Black pine. This medium-sized evergreen shrub conifer grows 10 to 12 feet high and 12 to 15 feet wide (in 10 - 15 years). Its distinctive cottony terminal buds and dark green densely packed needles are architecturally beautiful in the fall-winter landscape.

“Billowy emerald clouds” best describes the needle foliage on Thunderhead pine.  Silvery white candles (shoots) grow 10 - 12 inches long in response to warm spring temps.  The shoots reach their full length by late May. Branches are rigid and its lower needles are mostly retained.

Desired location is in full to partial sun and in moderately acidic soils that are well-drained. Provide a minimum of 6 hours of sunlight. Plant in late winter to early fall from container or balled and burlapped (B&B) stock. Allow 1-2 years to become established after planting; afterwards drought and heat tolerant.

Feed annually in late winter with 10-10-10 or equivalent granular fertilizer. Pruning is rarely necessary except for desired shaping and sizing. Cut back new shoot growth (“candles”) around late May to early June before needles are fully expanded.

Disease and pest problems are rare when properly sited. Thunderhead is highly tolerant of wind, drought, and salt spray. Provide shelter from harsh winds to minimize off-color in winter. Availability is primarily from specialty conifer nurseries on-line or in the southeast region.

Thunderhead Japanese black pine is loved for its low maintenance and its dark evergreen foliage. This shrub pine conifer deserves a place in your landscape.

Planting Deodar Cedars

'Snow Sprite' deodar cedar

Himalayan cedar (Cedrus deodara), aka Deodar Cedar, is indigenous from northern India, east to Nepal, and northward through Pakistan and Afghanistan (USDA hardiness zones (6b)7-10). In the U.S., this evergreen conifer grows 60-70 feet high and 40 feet wide in 50 years. It offers year-round interest by way of its lovely pyramidal form and pendulous branching habit.


Deodar cedar is an excellent specimen tree. You may opt to mass several for privacy screening or a windbreak around your property. Create a unique focal point by clustering 3-5 trees together. Plant these long--lived evergreens for multi-generations to enjoy.


Site selection is most important. Deodars prefer mostly sunny sites and set in moist, well-drained soils. Two-year established trees are drought tolerant. Relatively free from pest and disease troubles, once planted, deodars will provide maintenance-free beauty.


Elegant weeping branches dip downward to the ground and then sweep upward. The older 2- and 3- year old needles drop in spring, just as new buds emerge to provide a soft green look. Male trees produce catkins that disperse copious amounts of pollen in early spring. Female trees develop 3-5 inch egg-shaped cones.


Weatherwise, deodars earn a reputation as finicky trees in the mid-South (Tennessee, Kentucky and Virginia). Young trees are more susceptible to cold than older stock. In a good soil young trees and shrubs grow off quickly, often achieving two feet of growth a year. If the tops of trees die back, winter freeze injury may be the problem.

'Glacier Blue' at Univ. of Tennessee Gardens

Winter hardy tree forms include ‘Shalimar’, a selection made in the Kashmiri region of India and Pakistan. Many shrub forms are also available such as:
'Feelin' Blue' - low spreading, mounding, space saving form; long, thick bluish tinted needles that retain their color into late summer; grows 1 to 2 feet tall in 10 years. 'Glacier Blue' -moderate growing shrub form with long blue-green foliage that grows 8-10 feet tall within 20 years.

Highly Rated Camellias Growing In Zone 6 Gardens

'April Tryst' camellia

You can now grow camellias in warm winter areas of the middle Atlantic States (Delaware, Maryland, Virginia) as well as the mid-South (Zones 6 and 7).  Depending on variety, camellias bloom in shades of white, pink, red, and some speckled and striped kinds. 

In northern locales where winters go down to 0 - 10 degrees F,  planting time starts from spring to early September to allow the root systems to grow deeply before cold weather arrives in December.

Sheltered the new camellias from direct sunlight and high wind. A site should have good soil drainage and has been generously amended with organic matter. Fertilize with a water soluble acidic fertilizer like Miracle-Gro or Hollytone according to package directions. Camellias grow best in partial shade — they do not like late afternoon summer sun.

'Snow Flurry'

Do not overwater camellias. A planting site under tall trees or on the north or west side of a building is ideal. Plants grown in full sun often develop leaf scorch.

Camellias are relatively deer-resistant. Deer and other garden nuisances are not known to bother camellias.
Some favorites in my East Tennessee Garden (zone 6-b) are:

‘April Dawn’ grows to about 10 feet tall and 6 feet wide with pale pink petals with dark pink streaks!

‘Artic Rose’ is double red floral beauty. This compact variety only grows to 6 feet tall and wide.

‘Snow Flurry’ (C. oleifera)  6 – 8 feet tall with 3-1/2 inch white blooms at an early age.

‘Autumn Pink Icicle’ (C. oleifera) - 5-6 feet upright shrub; large, double, rose-pink blooms.

‘Winter’s Snowman’ - 12 feet tall and 8 feet wide shrub; semi-double white flowers in fall.

‘Pink Icicle’ – 8 - 10 feet tall shrub; large 4-1/2 inch shell pink semi-double blooms in March/April

'April Remembered' - large cream to pink shaded semi-double flowers on a fast growing plant.

'April Rose' - Rose red formal double flowers on a compact.

'April Tryst' - Red, anemone form flowers on a well formed plant with medium growth.

‘Korean Fire’ (C. japonica) - vigorous 12-15 feet tall and 6-8 feet wide, blooming in March - early May; 3-5 inch wide deep red, single blooms /contrasting golden stamens in center.

Re-Invigor Your August Garden

'Knockout Pink' rebloom in early September

When you reach the month of August, your garden is either flourishing or you're thinking "better luck next year" or on the phone to a paving company. 
Here are some quick-step maintenance suggestions:
·         Keep container plants watered – remember that other than occasional August rains, you are their only resource for moisture.
·         Fertilize all container plants and perennials in your garden.  Frequent watering may be a must unless summer rainfall has been plentiful.
·         Add a Water Soluble Fertilizer products as Miracle Gro™, Jack's™, or Espoma™ Slow Release.
·         Prune back hybrid tea and shrub roses to spur plentiful re-blooms in September and October.
·         Continue to pull weeds. Don't allow them get ahead and go to seed.
·         Deadhead (prune back) annuals and perennials so they'll look better and to stimulate new blooms. Your lawn mower, set at 5-inch cutting height, makes the work faster and simpler.
·         Prune/remove dead limbs and branches on shrubs and smaller trees.
·         Scout these late summer pests - aphids, white flies, spider mites on all landscape plants. A number of safe organic pesticides or a coarse spray of water from a garden hose may take care of most pests.
·         If summer annuals have peaked and dying off from diseases or insect pests, head to your local garden center for fall blooming mums, asters, toad lilies, anemones, et.al.
·         Plant fresh containers or a garden bed of petunias, calibrachoas, marigolds, and/or globe amaranths (Gomphrena) that should bloom non-stop to first hard frost.

Calibrachoa in container

July Blooming Japanese Pagoda Tree

Japanese Pagoda tree (Styphnolobium japonicum), formerly Sophora japonica, is medium-sized tree that grows to 50 feet high, but seeing one 75 feet is not unusual in the southeastern U.S. Pagoda tree is native to eastern Asia (USDA hardiness zones 4 –8) where it is also called “Scholar tree”.

Japanese Pagoda Tree

What really makes pagoda tree strikingly different is its flowering time in July-August, when few landscape trees are blooming. Its pea-like, creamy-white flowers are showy, wisteria-like, and fragrant. The 12-inch long flower clusters droop off the branch tips. Fall color is rated average, leaves turning yellow.

In the early days of autumn, 3 to 8 inches long green fruits, best described as string of pearls, form and persist way into winter. Birds don’t are not attracted to the berries; they turn black, shrivel, and linger through winter. By spring the tree has shed most of the twiggy fruit rachises.


Pagoda tree grows in full to partial sun (6-hours minimum) and in a moist well-drained, slightly acidic soil. Pagoda tree tolerates urban drought, air pollution, and moderate soil salinity around coastal beach areas. The tree is rarely troubled by serious disease or insect problems.


Annual growth rate ranges from 18 to 24 inches. Summer foliage is comprised of 8-10 inch long, pinnately compound leaflets numbering 7 to 17. In some years its golden fall color can be spectacular.


Some cultivars, including weeping and upright (columnar) forms, are available. ‘Regent’ is the most popular cultivar, high valued as a vigorous grower and lustrous green foliage.

Seedless (Sterile) Blooming Rose Of Sharon Shrubs

'Lavender Chiffon' althea

Rose of Sharon, aka shrub althea, (Hibiscus syriacus) is a woody hibiscus shrub that is hardy in temperate northern areas of the U.S. (USDA hardiness zones 5-9). This summer flowering shrub is exceptionally easy to grow. 

At one time,  it was a great pass-along shrub that fell out of favor. However, old fashioned varieties frequently reseeded around the garden. New cultivars strut variegated foliage, double flowers, and infertile (sterile) blooms that produce little or no seed. They are available in a wide range of flower colors including pink, purple, blue, white, and almost red. 

Blooms may be single, semi-double, and double and range in size from 2-5 inches across. They grow in average to good garden soils with moderate drainage. For maximum flowering, site plants where they receive 6 or more hours of direct sun and feed annually with a slow-release fertilizer such as Osmocote™ or Nutricote™. Blooms attract numerous bees and butterflies. Japanese beetles may damage the flowers for a few weeks in early summer, but shrubs rapidly recover.

After their first year, Rose of Sharons are highly drought tolerant. Shrubs respond well to annual pruning and to severe “rejuvenating” by pruning to a few inches above the ground.

Some gardeners opt to grow them as perennials by cutting the plant back every year or two. In late spring the “shortened” plant(s) emerge as multi-stems, grow a 2-3 feet tall, and flower.

Alternative technique: thin out emerging growth to 1, 3 or 5 main shoots to train into a small patio tree.

Utilize Rose of Sharon as a specimen shrub or small tree, as a shrub border, or set into a large container. Best of the sterile forms of Rose of Sharon (althea):

Chiffon® series feature anemone-like double blooms for low seed set and long-blooming; color choices: Lavender (purple), Blue, and White; 8-12 feet x 6-10 feet wide.

Sugar Tip® - pure pink double blooms (no seed) and variegated semi-double creamy-white blooms/ bluish-green foliage; 8-12 feet x 6-8 feet.

Purple Pillar® - slender columnar growth habit (16 feet tall x 3 feet wide), 4-inch vibrant purple single to semi-double flowers with red centers; ideal fit for small urban gardens.

Rodgersia - Bold Look In A Shady Garden

Rodgersia

Rodgersia (two forms) is an outstanding summer flowering perennial grown for its broad foliage and showy flowers. Rodgersia has one key requirement: consistent soil moisture through the spring and summer months. Don’t attempt to grow this bold perennial unless its water needs is totally satisfied. Plants prefer wet, boggy feet (roots).

Rodgersias (Rodgersia pinnata) sport bold pinnately compound leaves that emerge with a dark bronze tint. Leaves measure more than a foot wide and 3-4 foot high perennial. In early summer, white bloom panicles rise 2 to 3 feet above the foliage and bloom over 3 to 4 weeks. 

A secondary species, Chestnut-leaved Rodgersia (R. aesculifolia), is another clump form with bold green foliage and bears creamy-white flowers in mid-summer (USDA hardiness zones 5 to 8).

Varieties of rodgersia: 'Chocolate Wing' -- cherry blossom pink and cream blooms); ‘Alba’- white flowers and dark green leaves/bronze veining.

Rodgersia prosper in partial day sun tor light shade all day. Site them nearby water features like within the splash-zone of a waterfall. They grow exceptionally well along woodland creeks.

When properly sited, the foliage remains blemish-free all season long. Disease and pest problems are rare if growing conditions are ideal. Deer and rabbits rarely trouble them

.

Planting in containers: plant a single crown into a 3 to 5 gallon size container filled with humus-rich potting soil. To restrict most water loss, line the bottom of the container with plastic shopping bags. This reduces irrigation needs that saves on your monthly water bill.

Big Bold Perennial Queen of The Prairie

Tall and pretty spectacular pretty much describes Queen of the prairie (Filipendula rubra) (USDA hardiness zones 3 to 8). The species is native from Pennsylvania to Georgia west and north to Iowa and Missouri. This long-lived beauty will dominate its garden spot for many years. Unlike most Filipendula spp. which bear white flowers, F. rubra flaunts wonderful pink flowers.

Queen of the prairie is valued for both its bold foliage and flowers. This clump-forming perennial grows 6-8 feet tall. Many 6-9 inch wide panicles (corymbs) tiny, fragrant, pale pink flowers fill the tops in early to mid summer. Bright green, deeply cut, pinnately compound leaves comprise 7-9 lance-shaped large leaflets, each leaflet 7-9 lobed. Leaves are fragrant.


In Zones 3 to 7, filipendulas grow naturally in mostly full sun sites. In the South (Zones 7b - 8), plants are best lightly shaded from mid-afternoon sun. Plant in moist acidic soils, but they also will prosper on poorly drained, calcareous sites. More soil moisture means taller plants.


Few serious disease or insect problems trouble filipendulas when plants are not crowded and roots are kept relatively moist. Leaf spots, powdery mildew, rust are occasional problems. Though quite tall, this sturdy stemmed perennial usually does not ask for staking unless grown in moderate shade.


Filipendulas are tall plants for large gardens. Plant three or more for an early summer spectacular floral show.


Landscape use: borders (rear), cottage gardens, rain gardens, wet meadows or in moist ground along streams or ponds.

Angel Trumpets

Mottled leaf / White Flowered Variety

Angel trumpet (Brugmansia) is tropical plant native from Venezuela to Peru (USDA hardiness zones 7-b to 10). Plants have shown to be surprising hardy outdoors in zone 6-b in protected sites. 

This beautiful shrub, often trained as a tree, may reach heights of 6-10 feet before cold weather arrives in the fall. It is a member of the Solanaceae family which includes tomato, potato, petunia, nicotiana and other great garden plants. 

Angel trumpets are highly prized for their enormous fragrant trumpet-shaped flowers, some 10 inches or more in length. The exotic flowers emit a strong lemony scent over the evening hours. Blooms are pollinated by moths. Flower colors range from white, orange, yellow, and pink. Some varieties exhibit variegated foliage.

If you live in a northerly area, purchase angel trumpet in early spring and grow the new plant indoors to get it well-established. Move it outdoors after the threat of frost has passed. Plant angel trumpet in a large 12-16 inch (or wider) container in well-drained potting soil (media). If you live in a mild temperate climate, plant directly into a garden bed in a well-drained soil and keep well mulched. You may want to place the heavy container on a dolly to move it around to different locations of the garden.

This fast growing plant demands lots of water, but it fails when over-watered. Keep soil moist and let soil dry out between waterings. Fertilize monthly with a water-soluble fertilizer such as Miracle-Gro®, Peters®, and Schultz®. In the summer, when plant growth is more rapid and most blooms form, feed every two weeks according to package directions. Cut back on fertilizing in fall and do not feed over winter.

In northerly areas, bring angel trumpet(s) inside as outdoor temperatures drop below 40°F. If you garden where winters are mild, protect by setting poles around it and wrap with milky white plastic. You may opt to cut back entire plant to the ground and mulch heavily to protect the crown during winter.

Occasionally snip off old spent flowers, and spur new growth. A container plant can be cut to the ground for winter. Beware: sap from this plant is highly poisonous when ingested by humans, pets, or livestock.

For a large selection of angel trumpet hybrids, shop on-line at Plant Delights Nursery in Raleigh, NC.

Pink variety

Ligularias Like "Wet Feet"

Ligularia 'The Rocket'

Ligularias (ligs) are outstanding summer flowering perennials  Two species and numerous varieties are grown for their bold foliage and showy flowers. Ligs have one special need: consistent soil moisture through the spring and summer months. Don’t attempt to grow either one of these awesome plants unless their water needs will be satisfied. These plants prefer wet, boggy feet (roots).

Their roots must be kept constantly moist so that leaves don’t wilt or "faint". Even after a summer shower, ligs may still go through a brief spell fainting in the mid-afternoon due to summer heat and water loss from transpiration.  By early evening the leaves recover fully hydrated.

Bigleaf ligs (L. dentata) and narrow-spiked ligularias (L. stenocephala), aka "golden ray", grow well in temperate climes (USDA hardiness zones 6 and 7). Tropical species are listed under the genus Farfugium  (zones 7b -10). Favorite cultivars include: 'The Rocket', 'Bottle Rocket', 'Britt-Marie Crawford', 'Desdemona'.

Ligularias (ligs) thrive in part day sun or light shade all day. Site them nearby water features like within the splash-zone of a waterfall. They grow exceptionally well along woodland creeks.
When properly sited, the foliage remains blemish-free season-long. Disease and pest problems are rare if growing conditions are ideal. Deer and rabbits rarely trouble them
.
Planting in containers: plant a single crown into a 3 to 5 gallon size container filled with humus-rich potting soil. To restrict most water loss, line the bottom of the container with plastic shopping bags. This reduces irrigation needs that saves on your monthly water bill.

Coneflowers

'Showoff' Echinacea at Kingwood Center, Mansfield, OH

Coneflowers (Echinacea spp.) have undergone great improvements over the past quarter century. Varieties are now available in many color shades and plants flower for longer periods. Recently introduced cultivars also grow alot shorter. On the negative side, some hybrid forms have been disappointing, barely surviving 1-2 years in the garden.

For overall dependability, Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) is my #1 favorite for dependability (USDA hardiness zones 3-8). The species is native to most of the Eastern and Midwestern U.S. They bloom in July, August, and into September, their nectar-filled flowers attract  butterflies and bees, and their winter seed heads provide food for birds and other critters.

Yellow Coneflower (Echinacea paradoxa) is native to the Ozark region in Missouri and Arkansas. The yellow blooming E. paradoxa have been bred with E. purpurea. Flowering starts in June, and puts on a long show even as the petals fade. This species has a small geographic range due to habitat loss.

Pale Purple Coneflower (Echinacea pallida) are native from the central U.S. Petals tend to be long, narrow, and droopy along with washed out lavender color. Leaves and stems are particularly fuzzy. They bloom from June to July and grow in most U.S. gardens under proper care.

Tennessee Coneflower (Echinacea tennesseensis) are native the state, but their habitat has been in decline over the past half century. Only recently has it been removed from the endangered species list. This mid-summer bloomer grows 2 to 2 ½ feet tall.

Coneflowers perform best in full sun and within a low to moderate range of soil fertility. While good soil drainage and watering during prolonged dry spells are good practice. Keep in mind that most coneflowers establish deep taproots and resent constant irrigation and over-feeding. To insure winter survival, coneflowers should be planted before July 1st.

Summer Garden Phlox

Proper siting - full to partial sun and humus-rich soil - are key to successfully growing garden phlox (Phlox spp.) (USDA hardiness zones 3-8). Phlox ask for minimal care of seasonal fertilizing, mulching, and supplemental watering in periods of drought. Deadheading also extends the plant's flowering potential.  Select truly superior cultivars and never over-irrigate the garden bed. Finally, avoid overcrowding plants which may result in outbreaks with powdery mildew disease.

2015-17 MT. Cuba Center's Phlox Trial in Greenville, DE. The best performing cultivars of Phlox paniculata are: P. paniculata ‘Jeana’, ‘Glamour Girl’, ‘Delta Snow’, ‘Lavelle’, ‘Robert Poore’, ‘Dick Weaver’, ‘David’, ‘Ditomdre’ (Coral Crème Drop), and ‘Shortwood’.

The best performing selections from other species and hybrid phlox are: Carolina phlox (Phlox carolina ssp. carolina) ‘Kim’ (light pink), Phlox glaberrima ssp. triflora 'Bill Baker', sweetly aromatic, reddish purple flowers  (P. glaberrima ‘Morris Berd’), purplish-pink flowers of P.  x ‘Forever Pink’, P. amplifolia, and P. x ‘Minnie Pearl’ (pure white).

Three P. paniculata favorites:
‘David’ - large, pure white, fragrant flowers; foliage is highly mildew resistant; 2002 Perennial Plant of The Year
'Delta Snow' - grows 3-4 feet tall. Fragrant, snow white tubular flowers with purple eyes; mildew resistant foliage.
‘Jeana’ - long blooming summer phlox cultivar; deep green foliage is topped by conical lavender-pink flowers and mildew resistant foliage.

All three varieties make colorful additions to cut flower arrangements.

Pruning Time For Oakleaf Hydrangeas

Native oakleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea quercifolia) are pruned as their summer flowers start to declines in quality around late July. The main pruning time for oakleaf hydrangeas is from mid-June thru mid-August. At this time, make the big cuts to reduce shrub height and width, if needed. Secondly, remove or “deadhead” all withered or faded flowers.

A frequently asked question is "should I prune my oakleaf hydrangeas coming out of winter"? My general response is no, because you will be reducing the flower count in June. However, if you missed making last summer's cutbacks (or cleanups), you may remove 20-25% of the dormant branches and only sacrifice a few flowers. Broken, diseased wood, plus bottom suckers may be removed to improve the appearance of the overall plant.

Oakleaf hydrangeas set their flower buds for next spring on both old or current season’s growth on the terminal bud. Do not practice pruning in the fall as it may stimulate new soft growth which dies over a cold winter. Make all cuts 1/4 inch above the last set of leaves or cutback flush to a main branch.

Summer pruning improves the health of oakleaf hydrangeas and stimulates new vegetative growth. On older 4-5 year old hydrangeas, remove larger, thicker canes and prune them at the base of the stem.

What about old neglected oakleaf hydrangeas? Remove one-quarter to one-third of these older branches. In 3-4 years the shrub will be completely rejuvenated.

Dead, dying, diseased stems, and old flower heads can be removed at any time of year.

Silberlocke Korean Fir

Dwarf cultivars of Korean firs (Abies koreana) are favorites among many conifer collectors (USDA hardiness zones 5-8). Four ultra-dwarf varieties grow inches per year. Horstmann’s Silberlocke’ is the leading Korean fir variety among conifer collectors. To encourage a deep extensive root system, extra care (TLC) is needed the first 2-3 years after planting in the garden.


‘

Abies koreana  'Horstmann’s Silberlocke’

'Horstmann’s Silberlocke’ The German word silberlocke means "silver locks of hair". The needles on the branches curl on the tops exposing the white underside of the needles, resulting in a frosted look. Annual growth rate is 6 - 8 inches (15 – 20 cm). Over the years, 'Horstmann's Silberlocke' will develop into a small 12 feet high x 8 feet wide landscape tree. The curling needle trait is often lost as the plant age. ‘Silberlocke’ also produces purple/tan cones on young plants.

Plant in a humus-rich, acidic, well-drained soil and in a sun to partial shade garden bed. Mulch with acidic organic compost such as pine needles, shredded pine bark, or chips. Irrigate once or twice monthly during periods of drought, heat or high winds.


Korean fir appears to be more heat tolerant than other firs, but it prefers cooler regions of the U.S. As with most firs in the South, Korean fir will often fail if too hot and will fail in wet soppy soils. In the warm humid southeastern U.S. environment, Korean fir should be grafted on Momi fir (Abies firma) rootstock. Dwarf forms make great additions to a small urban garden, a rockery, or a large container. Korean fir is rated as deer resistant.


Because of their rates of growth, super dwarfs are investments in the future. A plant with some size will likely command a premium price.

List Of Weeping Tree Forms

The following is a list of currently 26 species of landscape trees which lists one or more weeping cultivars. over time, more tree genera will be added:

Weeping willow (Salix)

• Weeping Japanese Maples (Acer palmatum) –‘Ryusen’, 'Matsukake', 'Omuyarama' and 'Green Cascade' among others

• Weeping river birch (Betula nigra ‘Summer Cascade™’)
• Weeping birch (Betula pendula) 'Youngii’, 'Dalecarlica', 'Golden Cloud', 'Gracilis', 'Laciniata', 'Purpurea')
• Weeping katsura tree (Cercidiphyllum japonicum) 'Pendula', 'Tidal Wave', 'Amazing Grace'
• Weeping redbud (Cercis canadensis) ‘Traveller’, ‘Ruby Falls’, Lavender Twist® (‘Covey’), ‘Whitewater'
• Weeping Blue Atlas cedar (Cedrus atlantica) ‘Pendula’

Weeping mulberry (Morus)

• Weeping Himalayan cedar (Cedrus deodara ‘Pendula’)
• Weeping beech (Fagus sylvatica 'Pendula', 'Atropunicea', 'Atropurpurea', ‘Purpurea Pendula’
• Weeping Japanese Larch (Larix kaempferi 'Pendula')
• Weeping crabapple (Malus x ) ‘Red Jade’, 'Louisa', 'Luwick', Molten Lava™ (‘Molazam’), 'Royal Fountain', several others
• Weeping white mulberry (Morus alba ‘Pendula’ (female clone –sets fruits); 'Chaparral’ (male clone – no fruits)
• Weeping blackgum (Nyssa sylvatica) ‘Autumn Cascade’
• Weeping Norway spruce (Picea abies ‘Pendula’)
• Weeping Serbian spruce (Picea omorika ‘Pendula)
• Weeping white pine (Pinus strobus ‘Pendula)
• Weeping Flowering Apricot (Prunus mume 'Pendula')
• Weeping cherries (Prunus serrulata 'Kiku-shidare-zakura')
• Weeping Higan cherry (Prunus subhirtella 'Pendula', 'Pendula Alba', and 'Pendula Rubra')
• Yoshino cherry (Prunus x yedoensis ‘Snow Fountains’)

• Weeping willow (Salix spp.) – many weeping cultivars; Contorted leaf willow (Salix matsudana 'Tortuosa')
• Weeping Japanese snowbell (Styrax japonicus) ‘Fragrant Fountains’, ‘Marley’s Pink Parasol® (‘JL Weeping’); Carillon’
  
• Japanese Pagoda Tree (Styphnolobium japonicum 'Pendula')
• Bald cypress (Taxodium distichum) – ‘Cascade Falls’, ‘Falling Waters’ (both grafted shrub forms that may be trained into small weeping tree forms)
• Little leaf linden (Tilia cordata) - 'Pendula Nana' and 'Girard's Pendula Nana' (both are dwarf forms)
• Weeping Silver Linden (Tilia petiolaris ‘Pendula
• Canadian hemlock (Tsuga canadensis) ‘Pendula’ –several weeping shrub forms
• Camperdown elm (Ulmus glabra 'Camperdownii')
• Weeping Alaskan cedar (Xanthocyparis nootkatensis 'Pendula', ‘Jubilee’, ‘Strict Weeping’)