'No Dig" Bulb Planting

"No Dig" Planting of 'Pink Perfection' Tulips

Digging all the holes to plant 25, 100, or 500 tulip bulbs can be a backbreaking chore. It doesn’t have to be that way. 

More than a decade ago, plant researchers at Cornell University in Ithaca, New York, developed a planting method called “top-planting”. It eliminates all the digging and the tulips come back and bloom well for several years.

Top-planting, also called “drop and cover,” is a planting technique that requires a lot less effort.

No Dig bulb planting is a lot simpler:

·         Choose a site in full sun and good soil drainage.

·         Till the planting area 3 to 4 inches deep with a roto-tiller.

·         Spread bulb fertilizer and lightly till in the fertilizer (optional).

·         Set the bulbs on top of the tilled area (no need to press the bulb into the ground).

·         Cover with 2 to 4 inches of composted mulch or aged compost.

·         No Dig works as well for daffodils as tulips.

Do not over-mulch. Adding more mulch will result in less blooms. Any good garden compost or double ground bark mulch should work. Brent Heath with Brent and Becky’s Bulbs in Gloucester, VA recommends adding  two inches of mulch in the fall of each year.


Bulb Spacing: Tulip (or daffodil) bulbs should be spaced 3 times the bulb size or 6 inches apart. That’s 4 bulbs per square foot.

Tulip varieties that perennialize well are recommended, particularly Darwin hybrids. They will regrow and re-bloom for several years. Again, don't forget to add 2-3 inches of new pine bark chips or pine needles to replace depleted mulch additions from past years.

Caveat: dormant tulips and daffodils like to spend their summers in dry soil. Too much irrigation during the summer months may rot the sleeping bulbs.

Re-blooming Amaryllis -- Just Add Water

An amaryllis bulb is nature’s equivalent of a re-chargeable battery. In the fall stop watering to push the bulb into dormancy (sleep). Most leaves wither and die within 4-6 weeks. Remove a dried leaves (for neatness). The bulb must remain dormant for a minimum of 8 weeks. Store the pot anywhere, in a closet shelf or out in the garage, provided the storage temperature does not drop below freezing (32° F).
Every few weeks, restart a potted amaryllis bulb. Place in an east or south-facing window of your home, and add water. Pre-mix a water-soluble fertilizer in the water according to manufacturer’s directions. First watering requires that you sink the pot bottom in a pail of water/fertilizer for 2-3 hours to fully adsorb water and nutrients. Turn the pot weekly so the plant and flower stalk grows straight up.
Your amaryllis will bloom in 4-6 weeks. Enjoy it! After flowering, continue to water and feed the plant until it can be moved outside onto a sunny deck or patio in mid to late spring after the frost danger has past. Your amaryllis will flourish through the summer months and will be fully recharge by autumn.
Repot your amaryllis every 3-4 years in the fall after dry-down. Divide and give away the extra bulbs to garden friends to enjoy. I enjoy shopping for new amaryllis bulbs at local garden shops and on-line at http://www.brentandbeckysbulbs.com/