Angel Trumpets

Mottled leaf / White Flowered Variety

Angel trumpet (Brugmansia) is tropical plant native from Venezuela to Peru (USDA hardiness zones 7-b to 10). Plants have shown to be surprising hardy outdoors in zone 6-b in protected sites. 

This beautiful shrub, often trained as a tree, may reach heights of 6-10 feet before cold weather arrives in the fall. It is a member of the Solanaceae family which includes tomato, potato, petunia, nicotiana and other great garden plants. 

Angel trumpets are highly prized for their enormous fragrant trumpet-shaped flowers, some 10 inches or more in length. The exotic flowers emit a strong lemony scent over the evening hours. Blooms are pollinated by moths. Flower colors range from white, orange, yellow, and pink. Some varieties exhibit variegated foliage.

If you live in a northerly area, purchase angel trumpet in early spring and grow the new plant indoors to get it well-established. Move it outdoors after the threat of frost has passed. Plant angel trumpet in a large 12-16 inch (or wider) container in well-drained potting soil (media). If you live in a mild temperate climate, plant directly into a garden bed in a well-drained soil and keep well mulched. You may want to place the heavy container on a dolly to move it around to different locations of the garden.

This fast growing plant demands lots of water, but it fails when over-watered. Keep soil moist and let soil dry out between waterings. Fertilize monthly with a water-soluble fertilizer such as Miracle-Gro®, Peters®, and Schultz®. In the summer, when plant growth is more rapid and most blooms form, feed every two weeks according to package directions. Cut back on fertilizing in fall and do not feed over winter.

In northerly areas, bring angel trumpet(s) inside as outdoor temperatures drop below 40°F. If you garden where winters are mild, protect by setting poles around it and wrap with milky white plastic. You may opt to cut back entire plant to the ground and mulch heavily to protect the crown during winter.

Occasionally snip off old spent flowers, and spur new growth. A container plant can be cut to the ground for winter. Beware: sap from this plant is highly poisonous when ingested by humans, pets, or livestock.

For a large selection of angel trumpet hybrids, shop on-line at Plant Delights Nursery in Raleigh, NC.

Pink variety

Growing Lamb's Ears

Lamb's ears (Stachys byzantina)

Many gardeners are acquainted with the wooly leaf perennial called lamb's ears (Stachys byzantina). It is native to Europe and Asia (USDA hardiness zones 4-8). Summer heat and humidity takes its toll on lamb's ears, particularly in Southern climes.

Lamb’s ear (S. byzantina) forms a dense mat of woolly silver-gray leaves. Plants grow 12 -15 inches high by 18 inches wide. Spikes of purplish pink flowers appear on tall stems in early summer that detract from the foliage and, in my opinion, should be pruned off. Bloom stalks tend to re-develop and necessitate more pruning.

The cultivar ‘Countess Helene von Stein’, aka ‘Big Ears’ is the preferred choice as it exhibits showier velvety foliage, is more heat and humidity tolerant, and best of all, it rarely flowers (sorry bees!). Over time, it forms wider mounds and seedlings (from blooming species) will spread to other areas. The species develops a messy appearance and asks for pruning after flowers have quit.

Both types of Stachys are easily grown in moist well-drained soils and full to part day sun (6 hours or more recommended). Soils should be kept evenly moist, but established plants exhibit moderate drought tolerance. Plants spread by underground stolons. Set multiple plants 12-18 inches apart as a ground cover.

No serious disease or insect pests trouble lamb's ears. Pollinators can't resist the striking midsummer colorful floral spikes. Deer and rabbits generally stay away. Snails and slugs may be troublesome in wet summers.

July/August Blooming Plumleaf Azaleas

July/August Blooming Plumleaf Azalea

Plumleaf azalea (Rhododendron prunifolium) is a deciduous azalea that is native to  Georgia and Alabama mountains (USDA hardiness zones 6-9). It is one of the signature plants of Callaway Gardens in Pine Mountain, Georgia.

Their bright orange-red flowers surprise in late July into early Augusta and may last for 2 weeks or more. Compared to many other spring blooming native azaleas, flowers are not fragrant. Spring and summer foliage is medium-green and is mostly blemish-free.

Fall leaf color is also uneventful. Insect and disease problems are rare if the plant is properly sited. 

This 5-8 feet tall and wide shrub performs best in morning sunlight and shaded from the harsh afternoon summer sun. It thrives in well-drained, compost amended soil. Plumleaf azalea prospers in the calcareous clay soils found in the Appalachian region without pH correction.  Plant in full-day light shade in zones 7-9. Set the shrub into a shallow wide dug hole that has been generously amended with compost and/or peat.

Feed in early spring with a slow-release fertilizer such as Osmocote™ or Nutricote™. An alternative nutrition program is to use a water soluble product such as Miracle-Gro™ or Jack's™  in early spring and again in early summer. Maintain 2-3 inches of a pine-based mulch around the base of the shrub. Irrigate plant(s) the first 2 years of establishment.

Plumleaf azalea blooms on new current season's wood. Prune deciduous azaleas anytime after bloom to maintain a desired height and spread. Plumleaf azalea is primarily available at local native plant nurseries or is offered online.

Plumleaf azaleas are usually available from mail order companies on-line.

Fall Blooming Toad Lilies

Toad lilies at Chanticleer Garden, Wayne, PA

Toad lilies (Tricyrtis spp.) are native to moist woodlands in India, China and Japan. They are in the lily (Lilaceae) plant family (USDA hardiness zones 4-9). Toad lilies are attractive fall-blooming shade perennials. In mid- to late September, as most perennials are finishing flowering, toad lilies are starting out. 

Three species of toad lilies, T. hirta, T. formosana, and T. macropoda are currently very popular, along with several hybrid cultivars.  Depending on species, plants grow 1 ½ to 3 feet tall. Funnel shaped orchid-like flowers come in an array of spotted colors and may be star or bell shaped.

Its plant name - “toad lily” - refers to the speckled flower colors. Planted in an ideal site, toadlilies are long-lived and require little attention. Flowers arise in the axils of the leaves and held on arching stems. 

Toad lilies prefer partial to full shade and in moist humus-rich garden soil. Under ideal conditions plants need little or no fertilizing. Feed plants lightly 1-2 times during the summer with water soluble fertilizers such as Miracle-Gro™ or Jack’s™.  Plants should be protected from the wind particularly in the southern parts of the U.S. Mulching keeps the soil moist and suppresses weeds. 

Divide roots of the toad lilies in early spring, and space new plants 2-3 feet apart.

Toad lilies are mostly untroubled by disease or pest problems. Anthracnose leaf spotting may pop up in wet summers. If so, rake up all fallen leaves and discard in late winter. In shady garden areas deer prefer hostas first, but may later turn to toad lilies. 

Top cultivars:
T. formosana - abundant purple-and-white blooms attached to 36 – 40 inch stalks. 
T. hirta ‘Miyazaki’ hybrids - superior flowering and vigorous growth.
T. macropoda  cultivars - ‘Sinonome’
Hybrids: ‘Tojen’ - unspotted lavender flowers; 'Lightning Strike' with green /gold-streaked foliage.

Growing Blueberries In Your Garden

Both highbush and rabbiteye blueberries (Vaccinium spp.) are hardy in most regions of the U.S. Hot humid summers are problematic for highbush varieties and extremely cold winters can be injurious for rabbiteye blueberries.

Blueberry bushes grow 8-15-feet tall, requiring annual pruning. The soil pH should be in the range of 4.2 to 5.5. Their dark green summer leaves turn scarlet red in the fall. Pale pink flowers appear in the spring followed by the berries which start out as pale-green and ripen to dark bluish-purple.

Blueberries are very shallow rooted and must be irrigated regularly over the growing season. Space blueberry bushes 5 to 7 feet apart with rows 8 feet apart. As a base mulch use fabric matt and cover it with an additional 3 to 4 inches of sawdust, wood chips or pine needles. 

Feed each bush annually with a slow release organic-based sulfur-coated fertilizer. A newly blueberry plant starts out with one ounce of ammonium sulfate to a maximum of 8 ounces of ammonium sulfate for a mature bush per year. Bushes reach full production in 5-6 years and should yield annually for 20-30 years.

For northern gardens (USDA hardiness zones 3-7), highbush blueberries ('Duke', 'Bluecrop', 'Bluejay', 'Jersey', 'Blueray' are favorite cultivars) are harvested.
In Southern gardens, rabbiteye blueberries (zones 7-9) yield best. Varieties include: ('Tifblue', 'Premier', 'Climax', 'Powderblue', 'Brightwell',  'Montgomery'). Consult the local Extension office for recommended blueberry varieties for your area.

Acclimated to southern climates (zones 6b-9), rabbiteye blueberries bloom in early spring and may be injured by late spring frosts. Varieties with a high chilling requirement may yield poorly in deep Southern areas.  Both kinds of blueberries require cross-pollination; a few varieties are  self-fruitful.

Birds love ripe blueberries as much as people do. Cover your bushes with netting to protect against birds during harvest time. Blueberries should be pruned annually.

Growing Pentas To Attract Pollinating Bees And Butterflies

Want to attract more butterflies to your garden this summer? Pentas (Egyptian starflower) (Pentas lanceolata) is what you should be planting. Pentas are one of the best pollinator-attracting plants around. Flower colors range from red, pale lavender, pink and white. 

Pentas blooms all summer long, even during the hottest weather conditions. The large clusters of star-shaped blooms attract butterflies, bees and an occasional hummingbird. These annual flowers perform well both in garden beds and in large containers. Keep plants deadheaded and remove any spent blooms to encourage constant flowering.

Pentas plants are annuals in most U.S. climates (zone 10 hardy). The overall habit of these plants is neat and compact. If plants get too long and woody, cut them back by one-half and feed them with a water soluble fertilizer such as Miracle-Gro™, Jacks™, or Schultz™. Tall leggy transplants should be tipped back to develop more branching.

Overall, pentas are very easy to maintain. Newer varieties have improved disease resistance and grow shorter, e.g. more compact in habit. Pentas are troubled by few diseases and should be inspected for insects like aphids (in cool springs) and spider mites (dry hot summer periods).

Pentas prefer to be planted in full sun and in moist, well-drained soil. Pentas will dry out in hot summers and should be irrigated weekly during these times.

Leading cultivar series are Graffiti™ and Kaleidoscope™ (compact growers); Butterfly, Starla, and Northern Lights (taller growing).

Growing Hardy Camellias

Growing camellias in Tennessee is no longer a dream. Through the efforts of several plant breeders, particularly Dr. William L. Ackerman of the U.S. National Arboretum (retired) and Dr. Clifford Parks of Camellia Forest Nursery, as many as 40 cultivars of winter hardy camellias to -15 °F are now available in nursery commerce. Flower colors range from white and many shades from pink to red.
A great camellia possesses big bloom size, long flowering time and dark green evergreen foliage. Beginners should start with a few outstanding cultivars. ‘Pink Icicle’ (pink semi-double), ‘April Tryst’ (dark red anemone) and ‘April Remembered’ (pink semi-double) begin blooming from late winter thru mid-April. The “winter” series with cultivar names such as ‘Winter’s Star’ (pale pink single in photo) and ‘Winter’s Interlude’ (pink anemone) bloom in early autumn. Currently, the spring-flowering cultivars stand out as possessing the best foliage quality year-round. Fall flowering cultivars have proven to be more dependable in northeast TN where spring frosts are very common.
As soon as the ground can be prepared, balled and burlapped (b&b) plants are planted during late winter to early spring and again from late summer thru mid-October. Container-grown plants may be planted from late winter to mid-October.
In general, the cultural practices for growing camellias are similar to those for azaleas, rhododendrons and hollies. Plants become fully established in two years. Camellias prefer an ideal pH range between 5.5 to 6.5. Camellias are best planted on the east or north side around a home or other buildings on site, preferring filtered sunlight through nearby shade trees rather than from direct sunlight in the afternoon. Low winter humidity may cause premature leaf and flower bud loss. It may be valuable to constructing a burlap windbreak to protect camellias planted in fully open areas.
Add a generous amount of organic matter such as compost, leaf mold or sphagnum peat to the soil. Be careful not to plant camellias too deeply. The crown of the shrub should be planted slightly higher than the surrounding soil. Followed up with the addition of 2 - 3 inches of mulch to help retain soil moisture and to minimize ground freezing and thawing over the winter months. Shrubs may be adequately watered over the first two years, particularly during periods when natural rainfall is low.
Camellias are light, constant feeders. A six-month slow-release fertilizer, applied in late March, should properly feed plants through late summer. An alternative strategy is to nourish plants with an acidifying fertilizer such as Hollytone™, Miracid™ or equivalent once in the months of March, May and July. No nitrogen-based fertilizers should be applied after mid-August to prevent potential bark splitting and other winter injury symptoms.
Many cultivars grow 9 -10 feet in height and 6 - 8 feet in width. Timely pruning shape shrubs to fit within their garden spot. Camellias generally need minimal pruning to remove weak or dead branches, to control shrub size, to develop dense, fuller branched plants, and to renew the vigor of older plants. Renewal pruning for older camellias is best performed in spring before the plants have broken vegetative buds. Taller growing cultivars like 'Pink Icicle' and 'Winter Star' may demand more rigorous cutting back to achieve better plant spread and compactness.
Camellias enjoy relief from most of the pest problems that plague them further south. Significant disease and insect problems may become more common as the popularity of camellias increases. Disease problems are best avoided by planting camellias in the proper location with proper sun, good soil drainage and air movement and supplemental irrigations during extremely dry weather periods. Long summer dry spells often lead to greater outbreaks of stem canker diseases. The leading pest of camellias is scale. Plants should be inspected prior to purchase from garden centers which purchase camellias from nurseries further south.