Soil Test Before Planting

Tilled soil ready for planting

Soil testing is your best low cost insurance for enjoying a beautiful garden or lawn through this year and years ahead. In mid-winter, before the rush to spring garden begins, take soil sample(s) to the local Extension office or mail directly to your State University soil lab. 

The local Extension office may charge you a very modest fee, usually $10-12 per sample in most states. Many local garden centers and farm cooperatives may also offer this service.

Within a few weeks a soil analysis report will arrive in the mail. It tells you the current nutrition level and pH of the soil. Also, how much chemical fertilizer, limestone, manure and other organic components to add. For organic farmers and gardeners, inform the soil lab staff that you are growing organically.

This accurate diagnosis will save money. Your garden soil may be rich enough to not need any fertilizer, or too high in certain nutrients, lime or sulfur. The soil pH may be too acidic (below pH 7.0) or alkaline (above pH 7.0). Many garden plants as azaleas, rhododendrons, dwarf conifers and blueberries prefer an acidic pH around 5.0. A soil high in alkalinity (pH above 7.0) could mean that some minor nutrients like iron or manganese may be unavailable to some plants.

How to collect a sample: Test your garden or lawn soil at least once every 4-5 years. You may want to separately test lawn, vegetable, fruit, and flower garden areas. If you specialize in growing roses, test this garden spot separately. For each garden section, randomly collect (dig) 4-5  spots to a depth of 5-6 inches into a bucket. From the bucket mix the sample and collect enough soil to fill a large baby food jar. The soil should be aired dry for several days before mailing it to the soil lab. Label the sample "roses", "vegetables", or "flowers".

Basics On Herbicide Use

Wild Garlic - spring weed

Dandelion

Herbicides are vegetation killers. They kill weeds and occasionally, if applied incorrectly, damage the good plants. A weed is any plant that you don’t want in the garden.

Avoid spraying on windy days or on hot days over 85 °F as chemical herbicides can drift or volatilize, injuring nearby garden plants. Warm summer temperatures increase the possibility of lawn injury from certain herbicides. It should not rain within 24 hours after application. Don't mow a few days before and 2-3 days following an application. Wait 3-4 mowings before treating a newly seeded lawn with any herbicide.

There may be 3 different kinds of weeds you’re trying to control: grasses, broadleaf types and sedges. Broadleaf weeds include dandelions, spotted spurges, buckthorns, purslanes and thistles. Fall and late winter (before new leaves emerge) are safe times to spray broadleaf herbicides. Most deciduous shrubs and trees are shedding their leaves and are less susceptible to the spray drift.

Spring and early summer herbicide applications will not control perennial and woody vegetation such as brambles or poison ivy. Wait until mid-summer to tackle these tough weeds.

For a contact broadleaf  herbicide to work, outdoor temperatures need to be 60 °F and higher over a 6 hour interval for the spray to be absorbed into the plant. Regardless the time of the year, weeds need to be actively growing for herbicides to work.

Finally, heavy weed invasion in lawns may be evidence of poor mowing practices, low soil fertility, or too much shade. Knotweed and spotted surge may indicate bad soil compaction. Tough weeds are not going to give up easily and multiple applications. may be necessary. 

Always read and understand the package directions before using.