Oyama or Siebold Magnolia

Oyama sieboldii

Oyama magnolia (Magnolia sieboldii) is a 10-15 feet tall (and equal spread) deciduous tree or large shrub from eastern Asia. It prefers to grow in partial sunlight and in moist, well drained loamy soil (USDA zones 6 -8). Why are not more gardeners are not growing this small tree/shrub magnolia. Spring bloom is in May, avoiding the threat of frost injuring the flower buds of this later blooming magnolia.

White nodding egg-shaped flower buds appear in late June, and blooms appear intermittently thru most of the summer. The 1-3 inch wide saucer shaped flowers are white, centered by crimson stamens within. Oyama begins to flower at an early age.

The 3-6 inch long medium green foliage is first to appear in April, coated with a silvery pubescence. Leaves turn pale yellow before abscising in mid-autumn. Small pink fruits appear in late summer, and split open to reveal orange-red seeds in late September. Branch bark wood is light gray.

Feed magnolias with a slow release fertilizer in early spring. They benefit from annual mulching.  Pruning shrub to desired shape and size, and to remove dead or broken branches.

Oyama magnolia is an excellent pick for a small garden. It is available from  a few on-line specialty nurseries.

Thunderhead Japanese Black Pine

'Thunderhead' Japanese Black Pine at U.T. Gardens in Knoxville

Thunderhead (Pinus thunbergiana) is a choice shrub variety of Japanese Black pine. This medium-sized evergreen shrub conifer grows 10 to 12 feet high and 12 to 15 feet wide (in 10 - 15 years). Its distinctive cottony terminal buds and dark green densely packed needles are architecturally beautiful in the fall-winter landscape.

“Billowy emerald clouds” best describes the needle foliage on Thunderhead pine.  Silvery white candles (shoots) grow 10 - 12 inches long in response to warm spring temps.  The shoots reach their full length by late May. Branches are rigid and its lower needles are mostly retained.

Desired location is in full to partial sun and in moderately acidic soils that are well-drained. Provide a minimum of 6 hours of sunlight. Plant in late winter to early fall from container or balled and burlapped (B&B) stock. Allow 1-2 years to become established after planting; afterwards drought and heat tolerant.

Feed annually in late winter with 10-10-10 or equivalent granular fertilizer. Pruning is rarely necessary except for desired shaping and sizing. Cut back new shoot growth (“candles”) around late May to early June before needles are fully expanded.

Disease and pest problems are rare when properly sited. Thunderhead is highly tolerant of wind, drought, and salt spray. Provide shelter from harsh winds to minimize off-color in winter. Availability is primarily from specialty conifer nurseries on-line or in the southeast region.

Thunderhead Japanese black pine is loved for its low maintenance and its dark evergreen foliage. This shrub pine conifer deserves a place in your landscape.

Seedless (Sterile) Blooming Rose Of Sharon Shrubs

'Lavender Chiffon' althea

Rose of Sharon, aka shrub althea, (Hibiscus syriacus) is a woody hibiscus shrub that is hardy in temperate northern areas of the U.S. (USDA hardiness zones 5-9). This summer flowering shrub is exceptionally easy to grow. 

At one time,  it was a great pass-along shrub that fell out of favor. However, old fashioned varieties frequently reseeded around the garden. New cultivars strut variegated foliage, double flowers, and infertile (sterile) blooms that produce little or no seed. They are available in a wide range of flower colors including pink, purple, blue, white, and almost red. 

Blooms may be single, semi-double, and double and range in size from 2-5 inches across. They grow in average to good garden soils with moderate drainage. For maximum flowering, site plants where they receive 6 or more hours of direct sun and feed annually with a slow-release fertilizer such as Osmocote™ or Nutricote™. Blooms attract numerous bees and butterflies. Japanese beetles may damage the flowers for a few weeks in early summer, but shrubs rapidly recover.

After their first year, Rose of Sharons are highly drought tolerant. Shrubs respond well to annual pruning and to severe “rejuvenating” by pruning to a few inches above the ground.

Some gardeners opt to grow them as perennials by cutting the plant back every year or two. In late spring the “shortened” plant(s) emerge as multi-stems, grow a 2-3 feet tall, and flower.

Alternative technique: thin out emerging growth to 1, 3 or 5 main shoots to train into a small patio tree.

Utilize Rose of Sharon as a specimen shrub or small tree, as a shrub border, or set into a large container. Best of the sterile forms of Rose of Sharon (althea):

Chiffon® series feature anemone-like double blooms for low seed set and long-blooming; color choices: Lavender (purple), Blue, and White; 8-12 feet x 6-10 feet wide.

Sugar Tip® - pure pink double blooms (no seed) and variegated semi-double creamy-white blooms/ bluish-green foliage; 8-12 feet x 6-8 feet.

Purple Pillar® - slender columnar growth habit (16 feet tall x 3 feet wide), 4-inch vibrant purple single to semi-double flowers with red centers; ideal fit for small urban gardens.

Pruning Time For Oakleaf Hydrangeas

Native oakleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea quercifolia) are pruned as their summer flowers start to declines in quality around late July. The main pruning time for oakleaf hydrangeas is from mid-June thru mid-August. At this time, make the big cuts to reduce shrub height and width, if needed. Secondly, remove or “deadhead” all withered or faded flowers.

A frequently asked question is "should I prune my oakleaf hydrangeas coming out of winter"? My general response is no, because you will be reducing the flower count in June. However, if you missed making last summer's cutbacks (or cleanups), you may remove 20-25% of the dormant branches and only sacrifice a few flowers. Broken, diseased wood, plus bottom suckers may be removed to improve the appearance of the overall plant.

Oakleaf hydrangeas set their flower buds for next spring on both old or current season’s growth on the terminal bud. Do not practice pruning in the fall as it may stimulate new soft growth which dies over a cold winter. Make all cuts 1/4 inch above the last set of leaves or cutback flush to a main branch.

Summer pruning improves the health of oakleaf hydrangeas and stimulates new vegetative growth. On older 4-5 year old hydrangeas, remove larger, thicker canes and prune them at the base of the stem.

What about old neglected oakleaf hydrangeas? Remove one-quarter to one-third of these older branches. In 3-4 years the shrub will be completely rejuvenated.

Dead, dying, diseased stems, and old flower heads can be removed at any time of year.

Growing Lamb's Ears

Lamb's ears (Stachys byzantina)

Many gardeners are acquainted with the wooly leaf perennial called lamb's ears (Stachys byzantina). It is native to Europe and Asia (USDA hardiness zones 4-8). Summer heat and humidity takes its toll on lamb's ears, particularly in Southern climes.

Lamb’s ear (S. byzantina) forms a dense mat of woolly silver-gray leaves. Plants grow 12 -15 inches high by 18 inches wide. Spikes of purplish pink flowers appear on tall stems in early summer that detract from the foliage and, in my opinion, should be pruned off. Bloom stalks tend to re-develop and necessitate more pruning.

The cultivar ‘Countess Helene von Stein’, aka ‘Big Ears’ is the preferred choice as it exhibits showier velvety foliage, is more heat and humidity tolerant, and best of all, it rarely flowers (sorry bees!). Over time, it forms wider mounds and seedlings (from blooming species) will spread to other areas. The species develops a messy appearance and asks for pruning after flowers have quit.

Both types of Stachys are easily grown in moist well-drained soils and full to part day sun (6 hours or more recommended). Soils should be kept evenly moist, but established plants exhibit moderate drought tolerance. Plants spread by underground stolons. Set multiple plants 12-18 inches apart as a ground cover.

No serious disease or insect pests trouble lamb's ears. Pollinators can't resist the striking midsummer colorful floral spikes. Deer and rabbits generally stay away. Snails and slugs may be troublesome in wet summers.

July/August Blooming Plumleaf Azaleas

July/August Blooming Plumleaf Azalea

Plumleaf azalea (Rhododendron prunifolium) is a deciduous azalea that is native to  Georgia and Alabama mountains (USDA hardiness zones 6-9). It is one of the signature plants of Callaway Gardens in Pine Mountain, Georgia.

Their bright orange-red flowers surprise in late July into early Augusta and may last for 2 weeks or more. Compared to many other spring blooming native azaleas, flowers are not fragrant. Spring and summer foliage is medium-green and is mostly blemish-free.

Fall leaf color is also uneventful. Insect and disease problems are rare if the plant is properly sited. 

This 5-8 feet tall and wide shrub performs best in morning sunlight and shaded from the harsh afternoon summer sun. It thrives in well-drained, compost amended soil. Plumleaf azalea prospers in the calcareous clay soils found in the Appalachian region without pH correction.  Plant in full-day light shade in zones 7-9. Set the shrub into a shallow wide dug hole that has been generously amended with compost and/or peat.

Feed in early spring with a slow-release fertilizer such as Osmocote™ or Nutricote™. An alternative nutrition program is to use a water soluble product such as Miracle-Gro™ or Jack's™  in early spring and again in early summer. Maintain 2-3 inches of a pine-based mulch around the base of the shrub. Irrigate plant(s) the first 2 years of establishment.

Plumleaf azalea blooms on new current season's wood. Prune deciduous azaleas anytime after bloom to maintain a desired height and spread. Plumleaf azalea is primarily available at local native plant nurseries or is offered online.

Plumleaf azaleas are usually available from mail order companies on-line.

American Yellowwood

May-June flowering tree

American yellowwood (Cladrastis kentukea), a member of the pea family (Fabaceae), is native to southeastern U.S. All other Cladrastis species are indigenous to Asia. Yellowwood is a beautiful medium-sized (35-45 feet) high tree with a broad crown, narrow profile, and upright branching.

Their pinnate compound leaves are alternately arranged. Each compound leaf is comprised 7-11 leaflets borne on a slender, green, 7-9 inches (20-30-cm) long rachis.

Dainty drooping panicles, almost wisteria-like, drip from the tips of branches in May or June, depending on regional location. The fragrant white-and-yellow pea-flowers are seldom borne on young trees and may take upwards of 10 years to bloom the first time. 

Yellowwood tends to be alternate-year bearing (i.e., bloom heavily one year, with little or no flowering the following year). Clusters of flattened green pea pods soon followed; each pod is 2-3 inch (10 cm) long and turns papery brown in autumn. Fall leaf color is brilliant yellow. The tree's light gray smooth bark, similar in appearance to beech (Fagus spp.), is an attractive four- season asset.

Yellowwood prefers a rich, deep, well-drained soil along with modest summer moisture. Leaves are subject to chlorosis (yellowing) in alkaline soils (pH above 7.2). This tap-rooted tree is drought tolerant within 2 years after planting. Yellowwood is not a good choice as a street tree as its surface roots may eventually push up sidewalks.

Narrow branch angles may result in limb trunked. When young, yellowwood needs to be correctively pruned to encourage wider branch angles and prevent bark inclusions. The cut branches tend to “bleed” sap excessively if pruned in winter.

Pests and diseases on yellowwood are rare, but the tree is susceptible to verticillium wilt. This thin bark tree is unfortunately subject to improper damage by line trimmers, mowers and other equipment, as well as sunscald over winter if young branches are left unshaded.

Japanese Umbrella Pine

30-year old Specimen at NC Arboretum in Asheville

Japanese Umbrella Pine (Sciadopitys verticillata) is an evergreen (USDA hardiness zones 5b -9). It is not actually a pine and is more closely related to yew (Taxus).  

Historically, umbrella pines date back to the dinosaur age. This mid-sized landscape tree possesses several fine attributes: shiny leaves are arranged in whorls like the spokes of an umbrella; peeling, reddish brown bark and a conical habit.

To conifer collectors, umbrella pine is the premium prize for any private collection. A young tree may require training to develop a strong central leader. Dwarf cultivars (see below)  grow slowly, only 4-5 inches yearly.

Umbrella Pine prefers a moist, organically rich, well-drained, moderately acidic soil. Feed with a slow release organic fertilizer in early spring. Maintain a 2-3 inches layer of an organic mulch around the tree base. In the mid-South (zones 6 -7), the tree prefers one-half to full-day sunlight. Further south,  morning sunlight is preferred. Pruning needs are rare, mostly to maintain the tree's pyramidal form and to remove a broken limb or two in late winter. Disease and insect problems are rare.

In the early years umbrella pine is a slow grower. Eventually, it reaches 30 to 40 feet in height and 20 feet in spread. Well cared for tree forms may attain 70 feet or more in height. This unique conifer possesses stiff needles arranged in whorls resembling an upside-down umbrella. Branches often will withstand heavy snow and ice loads.

The Umbrella Pine is an evergreen prized for its striking foliage and superior pyramidal form. Needles rarely go off color in winter. Select forms are available at specialty conifer nurseries.
Here are four dwarf forms for small gardens:

'Aurea' - yellow needle foliage

‘Gruene Kugel’ - from Germany with a rounded habit when young, slowly develop into a small compact tree with glossy deep green foliage year-round.

‘Joe Kozey’ grows tall and exceptionally narrow at 20 feet high and only 6 feet wide; slow-growing, spire-like habit.

'Picola' - broad growing, 2- inch long dark green needles; ultra-dwarf selection 16- 20 inches tall after 10 years; rock garden plant.

New Popularity Of Yellow Twig Dogwood

Red osier dogwood (Cornus sericea) is a medium-sized, deciduous shrub native to much of the Northern and Western United States (USDA hardiness zones 2-7). These shrubs standout in the winter landscape by their colorful stems. Cut branches are an added plus for indoor arrangements.

In recent years the yellow-twig form (C. sericea 'Flaviramea') has gained in popularity. Osier dogwoods grow well in very large containers, but can rapidly outgrow their pot space in 2-3 years.

Leaves are oblong-lanceolate (up to 5 inches long), oppositely arranged with 5-7 pairs of lateral veins, and entire margins. Species may grow up to 10 feet tall and spread voraciously by underground stolons to form large clumps. One landscape idea is to mix red and yellow–twig dogwoods together for an added color blast.

These stoloniferous dogwoods bloom in mid-spring (in Tennessee and Virginia). The terminal creamy white (cyme) flowers measure 1.5 to 2.0 inches across and white berries follow in late summer.

In northern areas, plant osier dogwoods in full sun (Zones 2-6) and in partial shade (Zone 7). Shrubs handle average soils. Fertilize in early spring before buds break and irrigate during long dry summer spells. Shrubs establish quickly and become drought tolerant after one year.

Stoloniferous dogwoods are disease and insect resistant and deer generally overlook them. Utilize them in perennial or shrub borders, masses and groupings, container gardens and winter gardens.

Pruning tip: cut 2-3 year old shoots back to the ground immediately after spring flowering to promote colorful juvenile shoots.

Lovely Panicle Hydrangeas

Limelight hydrangea at NC Arboretum in Asheville

Beautiful panicle hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata) are among the best hydrangea choices for the summer garden (USDA hardiness zones 3 to 8). They are perfect for use in containers or in groupings or masses, shrub borders, hedges, and screens.

Limelight® hydrangea has become the standard-bearer of panicled hydrangeas with huge 6 - 8 (12) inches chartreuse (off white) flower heads in mid-summer. Limelight is a more compact selection 6 to 8 feet tall and wide over time.

Fall leaf color is usually blah in shades of yellow in fall. Flowers of some cultivars age gracefully with floral heads turning lightly pink. Panicled hydrangeas are suitable as fresh cut or dried flowers.  

Plants grow from 3 - 10 feet high depending on the variety chosen. For best flowering grow shrubs in full sun to light shade and in moist, but well-drained soil. Shrubs bloom on new wood in summer, and are pruned to desired size and shape in early spring.

For smaller landscapes, there are several smaller panicle hydrangeas to choose.

Bobo® hydrangea - fluffy, creamy spikes that turn to deep pink with red highlights on bold, red stems. Earlier blooming Bobo opens 1-2 weeks before other H. paniculata varieties start blooming. Bobo grow 3–5 feet tall, and is an ideal choice for small gardens and growing in large containers.

Little Lime® hydrangea – a dwarf version of Limelight® grows 5-6 feet tall and wide, and boasts chartreuse florets that turn creamy and then mature to rosy pink. Often all three colors coincide. Little Quick Fire panicle hydrangea, 4 to 5 feet tall and 3 feet wide, blooms early in the season with white panicles that mature to rosy red.

Little Quick Fire® - the smaller version of H. paniculata Quick Fire® @ 3-5 feet tall and to 2-4 feet wide. It blooms early (almost 4 weeks earlier than other panicle hydrangeas) in upright panicles. Each panicle (to 6” tall) contains abundant showy sterile florets which emerge white but change to pink and finally reddish-purple as the summer progresses.

Little Lamb® - downsized version of H. paniculata ‘Grandiflora’ @ 6-8 feet tall and wide. Dense, cone-shaped panicles of mostly sterile, small white flowers. Panicles stand on upright to outward-arching, stiff sturdy stems. The much smaller, fluffy, fertile flowers are partially visible beneath the showier, sterile ones.

Pinky Winky Hydrangea - unique, large bi-colored, white and pink flowers that look nice against the dark green foliage of the plant. Its unique red stems rigidly supports large 12-16 inch blooms upright on the plant. The older flowers mature to dark pink while new flowers continue to emerge white. Pinky Winky hydrangeas grow 5-6 feet tall and 6-8 feet wide.

Growing Blueberries In Your Garden

Both highbush and rabbiteye blueberries (Vaccinium spp.) are hardy in most regions of the U.S. Hot humid summers are problematic for highbush varieties and extremely cold winters can be injurious for rabbiteye blueberries.

Blueberry bushes grow 8-15-feet tall, requiring annual pruning. The soil pH should be in the range of 4.2 to 5.5. Their dark green summer leaves turn scarlet red in the fall. Pale pink flowers appear in the spring followed by the berries which start out as pale-green and ripen to dark bluish-purple.

Blueberries are very shallow rooted and must be irrigated regularly over the growing season. Space blueberry bushes 5 to 7 feet apart with rows 8 feet apart. As a base mulch use fabric matt and cover it with an additional 3 to 4 inches of sawdust, wood chips or pine needles. 

Feed each bush annually with a slow release organic-based sulfur-coated fertilizer. A newly blueberry plant starts out with one ounce of ammonium sulfate to a maximum of 8 ounces of ammonium sulfate for a mature bush per year. Bushes reach full production in 5-6 years and should yield annually for 20-30 years.

For northern gardens (USDA hardiness zones 3-7), highbush blueberries ('Duke', 'Bluecrop', 'Bluejay', 'Jersey', 'Blueray' are favorite cultivars) are harvested.
In Southern gardens, rabbiteye blueberries (zones 7-9) yield best. Varieties include: ('Tifblue', 'Premier', 'Climax', 'Powderblue', 'Brightwell',  'Montgomery'). Consult the local Extension office for recommended blueberry varieties for your area.

Acclimated to southern climates (zones 6b-9), rabbiteye blueberries bloom in early spring and may be injured by late spring frosts. Varieties with a high chilling requirement may yield poorly in deep Southern areas.  Both kinds of blueberries require cross-pollination; a few varieties are  self-fruitful.

Birds love ripe blueberries as much as people do. Cover your bushes with netting to protect against birds during harvest time. Blueberries should be pruned annually.

Diseased Resistant Flowering Dogwoods

'Appalachian Joy' at NC Arboretum, Asheville, NC

Flowering dogwood (Cornus florida) is a small spring flowering tree that typically grows 15-30 feet tall. It is generally  low-branching, and with a flat-topped canopy.

This beautiful native tree grows best in a moist well-drained soils in 3/4 day sun to light shade. Maintain a 2-4 inch mulch layer around the tree to keep roots cool and moist. It rarely requires pruning, except to remove a broken or dead limb.

Concerns about planting flowering dogwoods (Cornus florida) have calmed over the years  with the introduction of five disease resistant dogwood varieties from the University of Tennessee. Spring availability should be good and come in larger landscape sizes in containers and balled and burlapped (b&b).

Anthracnose resistant cultivar: 'Appalachian Spring'

Powdery mildew resistant cultivars: 'Appalachian Snow', 'Appalachian Blush' and 'Appalachian Mist'.

Additionally, 'Cherokee Brave', with dark pink flower bracts, has proven to exhibit exceptionally good powdery mildew resistance.

Flowering dogwood performs best in southern New England and mid-Atlantic states, eastern Mid-west states (Illinois to Ohio), and southeastern U.S.

Winter Blooming Witchhazels

'Primervera' witchhazel at Biltmore Estates, Asheville, NC

Starting in February, hybrid witchhazels from China, Korea and Japan begin flowering. Two of the very best are a Chinese species/cultivar called H. mollis ‘Wisley Supreme’ and a hybrid form called H. x intermedia ‘Westerstede’.

'Wisley Supreme' grows to 8 - 12 feet in height and almost the same in width. Its young branches are very upright. Its pale yellow strap-like flowers are long lasting and sweet smelling upclose. Spring-summer oval leaves posess a blue - green cast, and turn buttery yellow in the fall.

Favorite cultivar 'Westerstede' is a hybrid selection (Japanese (H. japonicum) and Chinese (H. mollis) from Germany. Westerstede bears light yellow 1- inch long ribbon-like flowers which are fragrant. Floral buds begin to open 1 - 2 weeks later than 'Wisley Supreme'. The broad 5 - 6 inch circular green leaves turn a nice buttery yellow in fall. Westerstede summer foliage possesses better leaf spot resistance than one-time favorite ‘Arnold Promise’.

Near the end of the calendar year, the U.S. native witchhazel (H. virginiana) blooms. By that time, most Americans pass by this very tall shrub/small tree with their attention set on Halloween and Thanksgiving.

Witchhazels are easy to grow in an average well-drained moist garden soil and in full sun to light shade.  A slightly acidic pH soil is preferred. Most hybrid witchhazels become tall 20 foot shrubs. Annual spring pruning is warranted to keep this vigorous shrub in check.

Most garden centers do not sell early blooming shrubs, particularly witchhazels, but plants are sold at e-nursery outlets.

Pruning Hydrangeas

Photo: Hydrangea paniculata 'Limelight'

PeeGee or panicled hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata) or the native Smooth hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens) are pruned in early spring because they bloom on the current season’s wood. If you feel the need, these plants could be cut to about 4 inches from the ground in early spring and will produce new shoots and blooms during the season.

Coppicing - Renewal Pruning for Old Rhododendrons

Photo: when rosebay rhododendron (R. maximum) gets too tall and leggy, coppice (prune back) in late September and October

Coppicing is a no-brainer form of renewal pruning. The entire shrub is lopped off to the ground to re-start from its roots next spring. For many gardeners, it's a gutsy move, but a fairly simple task. Coppicing also eliminates disease and/or insect- riddled stems and twigs without resorting to pesticides.

Timing is critical. Overgrown rhododendrons, including deciduous azaleas, hollies, pieris and mountain laurels may be coppiced from late September thru October. Coppicing invigorates old shrubs, brightens foliage color and increases fruit size.

Very important: over-grown shrubs should be well-established and healthy; old rhodies in poor health will likely not re-grow. Rhodies may be cut back severely to stumps with no leaves. Healthy plants recover quickly vegetatively, but do not flower for two, sometimes three years.

A coppiced plant sometimes re-grow so vigorously that some additional pruning will be necessary. Many new shoots (stems) will emerge; select the most straightest and most vigorous.

Hand clippers, loppers, and saws should be sharp. Do not use weed-eaters.

Dreaded Rose Rosette Disease

No rose is resistant to this deadly virus disease. Symptoms of rose rosette disease (photo) vary greatly from the species or cultivar planted. Leaves may be small, distorted, and exhibit a conspicuous red pigmentation. Diseased canes may also be noticeably thicker than others around them, and/or may grow in a spiral pattern.

Multi-flora roses, a noxious shrubby weed, are most susceptible and often are first to contract the disease. Very small eriophyid mites transmit rose rosette disease by feeding off the plants which are already infected. Mites transmit the virus to healthy roses nearby. Control measures must be rapid and decisive.

Insect spraying will help. Spray roses with Sevin (carbaryl) insecticide for partial control of the eriophyid mite. Eliminate multi-floral roses within 300 feet from any rose plantings, preferably from all surrounding yards and gardens.

Prune out all diseased and suspected canes. Remove all prunings immediately from the property. If symptoms reappear on new re-growth canes, remove the bush from the property. When planting roses, space them far enough apart that foliage does not touch neighboring plants.

FireBlight on Apples and Pears

Fireblight is a serious bacterial disease that afflicts apple and pear trees. Fireblight may appear in two distinct forms. From April to early May flowers and fruit clusters may blacken (die). From May to mid-June a more serious symptom (photo) is sudden dieback, almost overnight, of branch tips . Leaves appear as if someone had poured gasoline over the tree and torched it. Infected branch tips may also look curled, as a so-called "shepherd's crook".

To prevent the spread of fireblight, prune off all diseased wood, cutting back 6 - 8 inches into adjacent healthy shoots. Pruning is done either when first seen or when the tree is dormant. Disinfect the pruning shears after each cut, dipping the blades into either rubbing alcohol or 20% bleach to water solution. Remove all diseased prunings from the property. Do not compost.

When planning an apple or pear home orchard, avoid planting very susceptible varieties such as 'Lodi', ‘Gala’, ‘Jonathan’, ‘Rome’, and ‘ Yellow Transparent'. Among pear varieties, ‘Bartlett’, D’Anjou’, ‘Bosc’ and ‘Clapps Favorite’ are most susceptible, and ‘Moonglow’, ‘Maxine’, ‘Magness’, and ‘Seckel’ are moderately resistant to fireblight. Most Asian pear varieties are very susceptible.

The Fear of Trees

Dendrophobia is the psychological fear of trees. At recent Earth Day gatherings we learn of the importance of trees in the environment. Most of us know that tree topping is bad, yet the practice continues. Large trees are butchered (not pruned) every year.

Some tree topping stems from a “lemming mentality”, that is, “I did it because my neighbor did it”. When asked if the neighbor was very intelligent, most replied that they rarely sought their advice on anything.

Other folks need to control nature and their surroundings. They love large trees, but fear the damage that fallen limbs might wreak on home and property. Property owners living in areas recently hit with terrible storm are more prone to remove large trees or heavily prune them.

Power tools in the hands of inexperienced property owners cause additional damage to large trees. It’s called "chain saw massacre", removing more than originally planned.

Finally, a local certified arborist told me: “People living in a neighborhood with topped or severely pruned trees felt cheated when their tree was properly pruned. They paid more for removing less, more time and skill involved to do it right.”