American Yellowwood

May-June flowering tree

American yellowwood (Cladrastis kentukea), a member of the pea family (Fabaceae), is native to southeastern U.S. All other Cladrastis species are indigenous to Asia. Yellowwood is a beautiful medium-sized (35-45 feet) high tree with a broad crown, narrow profile, and upright branching.

Their pinnate compound leaves are alternately arranged. Each compound leaf is comprised 7-11 leaflets borne on a slender, green, 7-9 inches (20-30-cm) long rachis.

Dainty drooping panicles, almost wisteria-like, drip from the tips of branches in May or June, depending on regional location. The fragrant white-and-yellow pea-flowers are seldom borne on young trees and may take upwards of 10 years to bloom the first time. 

Yellowwood tends to be alternate-year bearing (i.e., bloom heavily one year, with little or no flowering the following year). Clusters of flattened green pea pods soon followed; each pod is 2-3 inch (10 cm) long and turns papery brown in autumn. Fall leaf color is brilliant yellow. The tree's light gray smooth bark, similar in appearance to beech (Fagus spp.), is an attractive four- season asset.

Yellowwood prefers a rich, deep, well-drained soil along with modest summer moisture. Leaves are subject to chlorosis (yellowing) in alkaline soils (pH above 7.2). This tap-rooted tree is drought tolerant within 2 years after planting. Yellowwood is not a good choice as a street tree as its surface roots may eventually push up sidewalks.

Narrow branch angles may result in limb trunked. When young, yellowwood needs to be correctively pruned to encourage wider branch angles and prevent bark inclusions. The cut branches tend to “bleed” sap excessively if pruned in winter.

Pests and diseases on yellowwood are rare, but the tree is susceptible to verticillium wilt. This thin bark tree is unfortunately subject to improper damage by line trimmers, mowers and other equipment, as well as sunscald over winter if young branches are left unshaded.

Venus® Is A Unique Flowering Dogwood

7" Bracts of Venus® dogwood (C. kousa x C. nuttali)

Spring flowering dogwoods (Cornus spp.) are back in vogue again (USDA hardiness zones 6-9). A better understanding about growing dogwoods coupled with improved resistant disease varieties have seen the return of dogwoods to landscapes again.

If you want to plant a variety with the largest flowers, no question it is Venus®. This hybrid dogwood (Cornus kousa 'Chinensis' x Cornus nuttalii 'Goldspot' x Cornus kousa 'Rosea')  was developed at Rutgers University by Dr. Elwin R. Orton (now retired). The tree's large bracted blooms measure 6 - 7 inches across in April and May. 

Venus dogwood grows vigorously, 15-20 feet tall (slightly greater in spread). It is a small deciduous tree forms a dense, low-branched, spreading habit.

Venus is resistant to anthracnose and powdery mildew diseases. It has clean dark green foliage and large flowers. Red dogwood fruits attract lots of birds in early fall. Fall leaf color is red to orange.

This dogwood grows in average, medium moisture, well-drained soils in full sun to partial shade. In southeastern U.S., morning sunlight and afternoon shade is best. Summer leaf scorch may indicate too much direct sunlight and/or exposure to hot, windy or dry soil conditions. The tree benefits by applying 2-3 inches of a wood-based or needle mulch that keeps tree roots cool and moist. For the first 2-3 summers, a young dogwood should be irrigated during dry periods.

Venus dogwood, when properly sited and cared for, have few disease and insect problems. Stressed trees become vulnerable to stem cankers and insect borers. Deer are usually not troublesome.

Dogwoods are planted on urban and suburban lawns and around patio areas. Venus dogwood needs to be special ordered from garden centers or purchase from e-commerce nursery sources.

Baptisias

'Purple Smoke' baptisia

Baptisia (Baptisia spp.) are beautiful long-lived low maintenance native perennials. Plants thrive in rich well-drained soil under plenty of sunlight. When planting, treat the roots as fragile and permit baptisia one year to establish itself. They will reward you with many years of spring flowering.

False blue indigo (Baptisia australis) was selected Perennial Plant Of The Year in 2010 by the Perennial Plant Association.  Most modern day cultivars are usually hybrids. Lovely spikes of purple (B. australis), lavender blue (B. minor), white (B. alba), bright yellow (B. sphaerocarpa) and bicolors appear in May (in Tennessee). Each species or cultivar blooms for 2-3 weeks.  Bloom stalks can be included in fresh flower arrangements

Plants grown in partial shade may appear stretched or leggy, requiring some staking. Fewer flower spikes are produced in shady places. I opt to remove the pea -like pods that form within a month after flowering because the weighty pods may detract from its shrub-like appearance. Plants are cut down to the ground in late fall and added to the compost bin.

Blue false indigo is a beautiful, long-lived, drought tolerant perennial with a robust habit and attractive steel blue-gray foliage. In late May, its intensely saturated violet-blue flower spikes rise above 3-4 feet tall multi-stemmed plants with bluish-green foliage.

Baptisias are at their best in full sun and in moist, well-drained soils. Fertilize sparingly to avoid the plant from flopping.  If grown in full sun, you do not need to stake baptisia. Baptisia is heat and drought tolerant and rarely troubled by diseases and insects.

The single plant spreads slowly by rhizomes and eventually will crowd out neighboring plants. Divide clumps every 5 -7 years and share divisions with your gardening friends or start new plantings.

New Hybrid Bleeding Hearts

Dicentra 'Luxuriant' 

Bleeding hearts bloom in April into May (in Tennessee - zones 6 and 7). In cooler northerly locales, flowering may continue into summer.  The bright red, pink or white, heart-shaped, pendant flowers are supported on arching stems.

Bleeding hearts (Dicentra spp.) are truly one of nature’s glorious delights in the spring - early summer garden (USDA hardiness zones 3-9). Old fashion bleeding hearts (D. spectabilis), indigenous to Asia, grow taller and wider compared to their North American counterparts wild bleeding heart (D. exima) and Dutchman's breeches (D. cucullaria).

A number of new cultivars have been released in recent years that are hybrid crosses between D. peregrine (native to Japan) x D. exima (native to eastern North America) x D. formosa (native to Western U.S.). These bleeding heart grow more compact and robust, are longer flowering, exhibit blue-gray foliage, and offer more floral color choices.

Four notable hybrid cultivars include 'Luxuriant' (D. eximia  x D. formosa  - deeply-cut,  grayish-green foliage and cherry red blooms. ‘King of Hearts’ (D. peregrina x D. formosa subsp. oregana x D. eximia) - very compact grower only 9 inches high and 14 inches wide. 'Fire Island' (D. peregrina x D. exima) - white tipped magenta red flowers from late spring into midsummer and 12 inch x 20 inch mound of frosty blue foliage. ‘Valentine’ - a vigorous hybrid form with showy cherry red/white tipped flowers.

New hybrid forms tend to grow more vigorously and are spaced 24-36 inches apart. Good soil drainage is essential for bleeding hearts. Plant in a humus-rich mildly acidic soil along with more hours of sunlight, preferably in the morning. Lightly mulch around plants in a woodland garden. In late winter feed a slow-release fertilizer at the low package rate.

In southern locales hybrid forms generally die back (go dormant) by mid-summer unless regularly irrigated. Crowded clumps should be divided either in very early spring or after flowering.

Spring flowers attract butterflies and hummingbirds. Aphids, slugs and snails occasionally feed on the leaves. Plants are deer and rabbit resistant.

Bleeding hearts are great companions with other woodland plants such as ferns, lungworts (Pulmonaria spp.), brunneras, coral bells (Heuchera), and foam flowers (Tiarella).

Note: in recent times the genus Dicentra has been changed to Lamprocapnos.

Early Flowering Magnolias

'Leonard Messel' Magnolia

Early flowering magnolias (M. ×loebneri ) are excellent choices for a small flowering yard tree. This deciduous hybrid magnolia (M. kobus x M. stellata) includes some hybrid crosses including 'Leonard Messel', 'Ballerini', and 'Merrill'(zones (4)5-9).

Additional hybrid cultivars are also available in commerce that feature more compact forms and flowers (called "tepals") that are white, blush-pink, lilac pink or pink depending on cultivar.

In general, deciduous magnolias start out as slow growing large shrubs or small trees. At maturity they reach 25 feet and a rounded crown. Despite their early blooming, some flowers often escape freezing temps. In the case of first to bloom star magnolia (M. stellata), flowers may open over a 3 week interval.

  

My favorite cultivar in the group is 'Leonard Messel'. This small tree is often grown multi-trunked rather than a single trunk tree. Flowers measure 4-6 inches across with 10-15 petals. Flowers give way to cone-like fruits that age to a reddish tinge in late summer; fruits split open to distribute individual red coated seeds suspended on slender threads. Fruits are sometimes absent on some hybrid magnolias if inadequately pollinated.

Flowering magnolias are best grown in moist, organically rich, well-drained loams in full sun to part shade. Trees are generally intolerant of soil extremes (dry or wet) and intolerant of most urban pollutants. Young trees may take 3-4 years before first blooms appear. Magnolias are best sited in a site sheltered from high winds.

Leonard Messel magnolia has a multi-branched  habit and start producing their lovely flowers at an early age. No serious disease or pest problems trouble this cultivar when properly sited at planting. The 5-inch long, medium green obovate leaves remain blemish-free through the growing season. Its gray bark of deciduous magnolias is an added plus, particularly over the winter months. 

Growing Siberian Iris

'Caesar's Brother'

Siberian irises are favored by many gardeners  over the more popular bearded irises for their ease of maintenance, longevity, and disease and pest resistance. Their flowers are smaller than bearded iris blooms, but their grass-like foliage looks attractive all season long. Siberians are also more cold and heat tolerant.

Siberian irises are mostly hybrids of two southwest Asian species, I. sibirica and I. sanguinea (USDA hardiness zones 3-9). The narrow, grass-like foliage forms a vase-shaped clump to 2 feet high. Autumn foliage turns rusty brown in late fall. Flowering stems rise above the foliage to 3 feet tall in May-June.

Siberians perform well in most garden soils, but are at their best in humus-rich, mildly acidic soil. In spring feed with 10-10-10 or an equivalent granular fertilizer. In early summer apply a water soluble fertilizer such as Miracle-Gro™ or Jack’s™.

In Northern states (zones 3-6), Siberians want full day sun (or 6-hours minimum). In Southern areas, shelter from the mid-afternoon sun. Ample spring moisture is key, along with adequate rainfall during the summer. These iris clumps tolerate moderate summer dry periods of a week or two.

Mulch iris in spring to conserve soil moisture and prevent weed infestation. Voles and mice may munch on rhizomes. Remove spent bloom stalks, and brown and withered leaves to keep planting looking attractive. In late fall cut back all leaves 1-2 inches above the ground.

Siberian irises are generally pest-free with very little susceptibility to the two main problems of bearded iris, namely iris borer and bacterial soft rot. Plants tolerate deer and rabbits.

Divide big healthy clumps into 2-4 fans in either late summer or fall, depending on where you live. In northern zones spring or late summer are the best time to plant or divide. In southern climes, early fall is a better time. Clumps can grow undisturbed for several years, unless they become crowded, plant vigor declines, or bloom size declines.

Over 200 varieties are available, principally from online iris nurseries.

Soil Test Before Planting

Tilled soil ready for planting

Soil testing is your best low cost insurance for enjoying a beautiful garden or lawn through this year and years ahead. In mid-winter, before the rush to spring garden begins, take soil sample(s) to the local Extension office or mail directly to your State University soil lab. 

The local Extension office may charge you a very modest fee, usually $10-12 per sample in most states. Many local garden centers and farm cooperatives may also offer this service.

Within a few weeks a soil analysis report will arrive in the mail. It tells you the current nutrition level and pH of the soil. Also, how much chemical fertilizer, limestone, manure and other organic components to add. For organic farmers and gardeners, inform the soil lab staff that you are growing organically.

This accurate diagnosis will save money. Your garden soil may be rich enough to not need any fertilizer, or too high in certain nutrients, lime or sulfur. The soil pH may be too acidic (below pH 7.0) or alkaline (above pH 7.0). Many garden plants as azaleas, rhododendrons, dwarf conifers and blueberries prefer an acidic pH around 5.0. A soil high in alkalinity (pH above 7.0) could mean that some minor nutrients like iron or manganese may be unavailable to some plants.

How to collect a sample: Test your garden or lawn soil at least once every 4-5 years. You may want to separately test lawn, vegetable, fruit, and flower garden areas. If you specialize in growing roses, test this garden spot separately. For each garden section, randomly collect (dig) 4-5  spots to a depth of 5-6 inches into a bucket. From the bucket mix the sample and collect enough soil to fill a large baby food jar. The soil should be aired dry for several days before mailing it to the soil lab. Label the sample "roses", "vegetables", or "flowers".